6.7 Powerstroke Delete Kit With Tuner: Why the Name Tells You Almost Nothing

Across the systems in this guide, pricing starts at $249.00. Where you land above that floor is decided by your model year and by how much of the factory exhaust you want gone, not by how much power you are chasing.

The exhaust side is where the second half of that search phrase earns its keep. You'll want a compatible delete tune to keep DPF codes away. Hardware and calibration are two separate buys that have to agree with each other, and neither one finishes the job on its own.

Read your model year off the door jamb before you compare anything else, because the four parts here do not all cover the same span of years.

Which Part Fits Your 6.7 Powerstroke?

Year first, body style second. The four parts below cover different spans of Super Duty, and the crankcase kit reaches furthest of them all. The pipes are pickup parts, so a Cab & Chassis truck narrows the field fast — and that is worth knowing before you click buy rather than after.

Read the door jamb, not the tailgate badge

The sticker inside your driver's door carries the model year these parts are catalogued against, and it settles an argument a badge never can. The DPF & CAT Delete Pipe covers the 2011 through 2016 model years. Past that year the list you are shopping changes shape entirely, and that single break point is where most of the confusion on this platform starts.

The 4" Exhaust DPF Delete covers the 2011 through 2019 model years. The wider version of the same idea matches it exactly. The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete covers the 2011 through 2019 model years.

The CCV Delete Kit covers the 2011 through 2026 model years. That reach is why it stays on the table whichever pipe your year points you toward.

It helps to know what you are actually replacing. On a modern heavy-duty diesel the particulate filter sits inside the exhaust system itself.^[2] That filter lives under the truck, in the run of pipe you would be replacing.^[1]

Pickup or Cab & Chassis changes the answer

A Cab & Chassis truck routes its exhaust on its own terms, and the narrower pipe runs out of road right there. It does not fit Cab & Chassis trucks, which need custom routing, and it doesn't fit 6.0L or 6.4L engines. Stepping up in diameter moves that line exactly nowhere. It does not fit Cab & Chassis models without modification, and it does not fit 6.0L or 6.4L Powerstroke engines. Your engine code matters as much as your body style here, because the 6.0L and the 6.4L share a family name with your truck and almost nothing else.

None of that is a Ford quirk. Across the industry, the manuals written for chassis and body-builder configurations treat exhaust system modification as its own topic.^[3]

Cab & Chassis owners are not shut out entirely, though, because the crankcase side still has an answer for them. This fits the 2011 through 2022 F-250 and F-350 Super Duty with the 6.7L Powerstroke, and it's compatible with Cab & Chassis models and 2023–2025 F-250/F-350 applications too. It does not fit the 6.0L or 6.4L Powerstroke.

Cab and box length, and why they do not complicate this

Plenty of platforms make you measure the bed before you can order an exhaust. This one does not, at least not on these pipes. It fits 2011 through 2019 F-250, F-350, and F-450 Super Duty pickups with the 6.7L Powerstroke, across all cab and box lengths. Your box length does not change the answer on the wider pipe either. It fits all cab and box lengths.

So the decision tree is shorter than it looks. Year, then pickup or Cab & Chassis, then diameter. The good news? Two of those three you can settle standing in your own driveway.

Still second-guessing the third one? Call us at (888) 830-2588 and we will walk your truck through it with you. Ten minutes on the phone beats a week waiting on a carrier.

What the Hardware Actually Takes Off the Truck

Two systems, two completely different jobs. The pipes deal with the filter and converter sitting in your exhaust and the backpressure they create. The crankcase kit deals with oil mist that never belonged in your intake in the first place. Neither one substitutes for the other.

DPF, CAT, and the backpressure underneath both

Everything a diesel does starts with high-temperature, high-pressure gas pushing on a piston.^[4] To run properly the engine has to keep air, fuel and lubrication arriving at the cylinders without interruption.^[4] What the exhaust does with that gas afterwards is the whole subject of this section.

A Diesel Particulate Filter is a strainer, and every strainer eventually stops being a strainer and starts being a plug. A particulate filter does exactly what the name says: it traps the solids the engine makes.^[1] The DPF forces your engine into regen cycles, burning extra fuel at high temperatures to incinerate trapped soot. That heat cycle is the truck trying to clean the strainer while you are still running through it.

Heavy-duty diesel filters are built to clean themselves rather than be pulled and serviced.^[6] Filters start hunting for a chance to burn themselves clean at around 40% full, without telling the driver.^[5] That cleaning cycle works by deliberately raising exhaust gas temperature.^[1]

All that heat is not incidental, and the factory works to manage it. Some systems even mix in air downstream to bring the temperature down before it reaches the tailpipe.^[2]

Downstream of the filter sits the catalytic converter, and between them they own most of what is choking the exhaust. This pipe drops the two biggest restrictions in the factory exhaust: the DPF and the CAT. A 4" delete pipe eliminates all of it.

Exhaust gas temperature, or EGT, is the number that decides how hard you can lean on a diesel between rounds. Without DPF backpressure, your turbo spools faster and EGTs drop under load. On a build that spends its day on the dyno or on the trail, that is the whole point of the exercise.

The crankcase side, which is a system all its own

Blow-by is unavoidable on a working diesel, and the factory has to send it somewhere. The factory CCV routes crankcase blow-by — hot air loaded with oil mist — straight back into the intake. Picture the inside of a kitchen extractor hood after a couple of years, then picture that film sitting on the back of your intake and the cold side of your turbo.

The CCV Delete Kit for the 2011–2022 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke removes the factory Closed Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) system — stopping oil droplets from re-entering the intake and keeping hot, oil-laden air out of your turbo. This kit reroutes those gases away from the intake entirely, so the engine gets clean, fresh air only.

On the crankcase side, the ventilation filter element is a scheduled service item in its own right.^[7] So this is a system the factory already expects you to touch, not one nobody was ever meant to open.

None of that has anything to do with the pipe under the truck, which is exactly why it gets forgotten. Under the hood is where this one lives, and it is the cheapest thing on this page.

Where each pipe starts, and where it stops

Where the new pipe picks up and where it lets go is the real difference between these three, and it is the part most buyers skim past. This is a 4" high-quality T409 stainless steel exhaust that connects from the downpipe and runs the full length of the truck, replacing the OEM DPF and CAT sections with a straight, free-flowing pipe.

More of the factory system comes off with the wider one. It runs from the down pipe connection straight back to the tailpipe, replacing the DPF, CAT, and all mid-pipe sections so your exhaust flows freely.

The shortest of the three never reaches the back of the truck. Your factory muffler stays in place. If you want the restriction gone without changing what your truck sounds like, that is the one to look at.

The Four Parts We Stock for the 6.7

Four parts, ordered by the years they cover rather than by what they cost. Two pipes cover the wide span, one covers the early trucks and leaves the muffler alone, and the crankcase kit runs alongside any of them. Find your year, then read only the block that matches it.

Material matters here for a reason. During a self-cleaning cycle the exhaust system and the gas inside it get genuinely hot.^[8] That is the duty a replacement pipe has to survive, whichever one you land on.

The turbo is the other component the exhaust talks to all day. Turbo hardware carries its own protection against over-speeding and overboost.^[9] On the variable-geometry designs that arrived with these engines, the turbo matches boost pressure to what the engine is asking for at that moment.^[6]

DPF & CAT Delete Pipe | Ford Powerstroke 2011-2016

The DPF & CAT Delete Pipe for 2011–2016 Ford 6.7L Powerstroke removes the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and Catalytic Converter (CAT) from your exhaust system — and it's our best-selling Powerstroke delete pipe for a reason. The DPF & CAT Delete Pipe for 2011-2016 starts at $399.00. For a part that takes out the two worst restrictions on an early 6.7, that is honest bang for your buck.

It's built from high-quality T-409 stainless steel with OEM-style hangers and clamps, so it bolts up to factory locations for a clean install. Fits 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, and 2016 Ford F-250, F-350, and F-450 with the 6.7L Powerstroke.

You get the T-409 stainless delete pipe and a step-by-step installation guide, plus a full-time support staff if you hit a snag — open a ticket on our site any time.

4" Exhaust DPF Delete | Ford Powerstroke 6.7L 2011-2019

The 4" DPF Delete Exhaust for the 2011–2019 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke pulls the Diesel Particulate Filter (DPF) and catalytic converter (CAT) off your F-250, F-350, or F-450 Super Duty. The 4" Exhaust DPF Delete for 2011-2019 starts at $679.00. For that you get the whole run of the truck rather than one section of it.

OEM-style hangers and clamps lock it in the same way the factory exhaust did, so there's no cutting, no fabrication, and no welding. It comes with the full exhaust, the hangers and clamps, and a step-by-step installation guide. Nothing else to source.

Already running calibration? If you've already got a delete tune running or you're planning one, this is the matching exhaust that finishes the job.

5" Exhaust DPF Delete | Ford 6.7L Powerstroke 2011-2019

The 5" DPF Delete Exhaust for the 2011-2019 Ford 6.7 Powerstroke replaces the factory DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter) and CAT (Catalytic Converter) with a straight-flowing 5" T-409 stainless steel pipe, stopping the regen cycles, restricted exhaust flow, and EGT spikes that bog these engines down over time. The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete for 2011-2019 starts at $749.00.

The OEM-style hangers and clamps bolt to factory locations, and the T-409 stainless steel handles real heat cycles. You get the 5" T-409 down-pipe-back pipe, OEM-style hangers and clamps, all mounting hardware, and a step-by-step guide.

CCV Delete Kit || Ford Powerstroke 6.7L 2011-2026

It's the best-selling Powerstroke CCV delete kit, and it's a clean DIY install. The CCV Delete Kit for 2011-2026 is $249.00. The kit replaces the factory CCV connection with billet aluminum fittings — stronger and more heat-resistant than the factory plastic — and uses a 3/4" hose to route crankcase gases clear of the intake, locked down with stainless steel hose clamps.

Billet instead of plastic is the detail worth pausing on, because heat is what that fitting has to live with. All the hardware and gaskets come in the box along with DIY-friendly instructions.

What it sounds like afterwards

Taking the filter and the converter out of a diesel exhaust changes its voice, and some people want that and some people very much do not. Removing the DPF and CAT also opens up the exhaust note, so ask about muffler options if you want it quieter. That is worth deciding before the box ships, not after the first cold start.

Which one we would buy, and for which truck

For a 2011 through 2016 Super Duty, the DPF & CAT Delete Pipe is the one we would start with. The muffler staying put is a real advantage on an early truck, and the price is the lowest of the three pipes.

For a 2017 through 2019 Super Duty, the 5" Exhaust DPF Delete is the one we would put on our own build. Down-pipe back to the tailpipe is as far as this list goes, and on a truck that gets leaned on we would rather have the extra diameter than wish for it later.

For a 2011 through 2019 Super Duty where the budget is doing the deciding, the 4" Exhaust DPF Delete is the pick. It covers the same nine model years for less money than the 5".

For any 2011 through 2026 6.7 Powerstroke, the CCV Delete Kit belongs on the list alongside whatever pipe you choose. It is a different system and a different job from the pipe, so it does not compete with whichever one you pick — it stacks on top of it.

Where Does the Tune Come In?

Right after the hardware, and from a separate purchase. The pipes take the filter and converter off the truck; the calibration tells your ECM that they are gone. Buy the pipe that fits your year first, then get the tune matched to it — and one of the four parts here skips this step altogether.

Hardware, then calibration, in that order

Bolting a pipe on without the calibration is a new door with no key cut for it. The engine controller and the exhaust hardware are designed as one integrated system, not as two independent parts.^[5] The controller is the thing managing combustion so the exhaust section can do its job, with no input from the driver.^[10]

That is why the second half of this purchase exists. Change the exhaust or the intake on a modern diesel and the dash is designed to notice.^[11] Install bolts up at the factory down pipe and hanger points with no welding, and you'll need a compatible delete tune to clear DPF-related codes from your ECM.

The natural assumption is that a delete kit arrives as one box with everything in it. It does not, and pretending otherwise would set you up for a bad Saturday. You'll want a compatible delete tune to keep check engine codes away once the hardware is gone — call us and we'll help you pair the right one.

Have your exact part and your model year in front of you when you make that call. Matching the calibration to the hardware is the entire job, and guessing at it is how people end up buying twice.

The one part that skips this step entirely

There's no tuner needed; this is a purely mechanical modification that doesn't touch your ECM or any electronic system. That makes the crankcase kit the one job on this page you can finish without ever plugging anything into the truck.

We get it — the electronics side is the part that makes people hesitate. If you want to feel the truck breathe better without touching a control module at all, this is where to start.

Doing the Job Once Instead of Twice

Most of the pain on this platform is not difficulty, it is sequence. Check what arrived before the truck goes up, soak the clamps the night before, and decide in advance whether the crankcase side is happening on the same day. That last decision alone can save you a second teardown.

Check the carton against the parts list the day it lands

Nothing kills a Saturday like finding a missing clamp with the truck already on stands. Open the carton on the day it lands and walk it against the printed guide inside.

Count the hangers. Count the clamps. If something is short or wrong, you want to know on the day the box arrives rather than the day the truck goes up, because a carrier takes days and a jack stand takes minutes.

No cutting, no welding, no fabrication

This is the part people brace for and do not need to. Every pipe on this page hangs off the same factory mounting points the old one used, which is the whole reason these go on with hand tools instead of a torch. If you were budgeting shop time for fabrication, put it back in your pocket.

Penetrating oil the night before is still the smartest ten minutes you will spend. Factory clamps that have lived under a truck for a decade do not always want to come apart politely.

One housekeeping note before the sparks and the swearing start. Keep anything flammable well away from the muffler and the pipe while you work.^[1]

Give it time to cool before you put a hand on anything, too. After a cleaning cycle those components will remain hot for several minutes.^[1]

Do the crankcase side while you are already in there

If your year is covered for both, doing the pipe and the crankcase side in one session saves you the whole setup twice over. Billet fittings and a length of hose is not a long job, and it has nothing to do with the exhaust and everything to do with what your turbo is breathing.

Why pay the setup cost twice? Jack stands out, jack stands away, once. While the truck is up, look over the steering, the suspension, the wheels and the rest of the exhaust for damage.^[11]

Before You Put the Order In

Shipping is included on these, delivery windows are published, and the return terms differ between the pipes and the crankcase kit. Read those two sets of terms before you check out, because an exhaust and a bolt-on kit are not treated the same way once they leave the warehouse.

Confirm what you are ordering against before you click, too. Chassis and body-builder trucks carry their own documentation precisely because alterations to them are handled differently.^[3]

How long the box actually takes to reach you

Orders process within 1 business day. Free shipping is included, with standard delivery in 8-10 business days and express in 5-8. Plan the install around the delivery window rather than the order date, and you will not have a truck sitting on stands waiting for a carrier.

Two things stretch that window. Alaska, Hawaii, and some Canadian locations may see additional freight charges, and if the pipe is on back order your shipment can take a few extra weeks.

Final sale, and the exception that still stands

Exhaust parts are ordered against a specific year and body style, and that is why the terms are what they are. Your dash already reports the state of the filter, which is worth reading before you order.^[12] Delete pipes are final sale and not eligible for a refund or return — but if you receive a faulty or wrong product, we'll send you a replacement.

Buy the crankcase kit and you get a window instead. Shipping is free, and the kit carries a 30-day return policy as long as it's unused — once installed, returns aren't accepted.

Either way, the year stamped on your door jamb is what keeps you out of that conversation in the first place.