6.7 Cummins Delete Kit With Tuner: What Comes in the Box and What Doesn't
The Short Answer
Search "delete kit with tuner" and you'll find a hundred listings that imply one box holds everything. Ours don't, and we'd rather say so on the way in than let you find out on the driveway.
What we stock for the 6.7 Cummins is the hardware half: full exhaust systems that replace the factory aftertreatment section. The calibration side is a separate product, a separate decision and a separate purchase.
That split isn't a gap in the catalogue. It's how these jobs actually go. The pipe and the tune come from different places, they're bought at different times, and pretending otherwise is how people end up with half a project and no plan.
Treat everything on this page as sold for closed-course competition and off-road use on vehicles not registered for highway use, and treat that off-road designation as not a legal exemption.
Why the Pipe and the Tune Are Sold Separately
The exhaust is metal. The tune is software that lives in the engine control module. They solve different problems and they're built by different people.
A pipe is a physical fit question: does this run of tubing match your chassis, your hangers and your cab configuration. Get it right and it bolts up; get it wrong and nothing you do with a laptop fixes it.
Calibration is a completely different question, tied to your ECM, your model year and what the truck is being used for. The two get bundled in marketing because bundles convert, not because they arrive together.
So here's the thing — when a listing promises you both for one price, the useful question is which half is actually specified. Usually it's the pipe, and the tune is a voucher for a conversation you have later.
What an Exhaust System Actually Replaces
Let's break it down, because the terminology gets slippery.
A full exhaust system replaces the factory aftertreatment section with straight pipe. Depending on the specific system, it runs from the turbo back or from the downpipe back.
What arrives: the pipe sections, the clamps and the hardware to hang it.
What doesn't: any calibration, any programmer, any handheld device. If a listing anywhere implies the exhaust changes what your ECM is doing, that listing is wrong about how the parts work.
What We Stock, and What Each One Fits
Here's the lineup. Every figure below comes straight off the product record.
4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018
The 4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018 is listed for the 2013 through 2018 model years.
It is priced from $699.00 to $775.00.
4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2019-2024
The 4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2019-2024 is listed for the 2019 through 2024 model years.
It is priced from $699.00 to $824.00.
5" Exhaust DPF Delete | Dodge Ram 6.7L Cummins 2007.5-2012
The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete | Dodge Ram 6.7L Cummins 2007.5-2012 is listed for the 2008 through 2012 model years.
It is priced from $849.00 to $1,029.00.
5" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018
The 5" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018 is listed for the 2013 through 2018 model years.
It is priced from $799.00 to $869.00.
Getting the Order of Operations Right
Most of the trouble we see is sequencing, not parts.
Work out the model year first. Everything downstream depends on it and it's the one fact nobody can guess for you. Door jamb sticker or VIN, not memory.
Then decide diameter. Where we list more than one size for your year, the price gap is modest and the difference is volume and tone rather than a number anybody should be quoting you.
Then, and only then, have the calibration conversation — with whoever is going to do that work, not with us, because we sell the pipe.
Doing it in that order means each decision is made with the previous one already settled. Doing it backwards is how a truck ends up on stands waiting for a part that was ordered against the wrong year.
Where the Law Actually Stands
This is the section most sites skip or bury. We're putting it in the middle of the article, where you'll actually read it.
Section 203(a)(3) of the Act prohibits tampering with emissions controls, and also prohibits making and selling products with a principal effect of bypassing, defeating, or rendering inoperative emissions controls.
The Act's prohibitions against tampering and aftermarket defeat devices are set forth in section 203(a)(3) of the Act, 42 U.S.C. § 7522(a)(3). That is the federal rule, and it isn't ambiguous.
The Act's prohibitions on tampering and defeat devices apply for the entire life of vehicles, engines, and equipment. So an older truck and a second owner change nothing at all.
Now the part people get wrong most often. There is no exemption under the CAA for vehicles used only offroad or only for racing. There is no legal pathway to convert a motor vehicle to a competition-use vehicle exempt from the tampering prohibition.
And the definition is broader than people expect. The term "motor vehicle" means any self-propelled vehicle designed for transporting persons or property on a street or highway. Your truck was designed that way at the factory, and parking it doesn't undesign it.
What's the compliant route for a truck you drive on the road?
- Ask for CARB Executive Order parts. Look for a part-specific CARB Executive Order number on the part itself, and check that the number covers your make, model and engine family rather than assuming a brand-wide approval.
- Ask about SEMA Certified Emissions parts. Treat this as a certification pathway a manufacturer can use to demonstrate a part does not increase emissions, not as a shortcut around anything.
- Ask your shop about emissions-intact tuning. Calibration work that leaves the aftertreatment hardware and the onboard diagnostic monitors doing their job is the route that keeps a plated truck where it needs to be.
If your truck wears plates and sees public roads, work down that list with your installer. We'd rather point you there than sell you the wrong thing.
Read one more thing carefully, because it gets repeated wrong all over the internet. Recent federal direction to the EPA covers clarifying what owners may do to repair their own emissions systems, expediting conformance testing of aftermarket parts, and considering enforcement priorities for people restoring a vehicle to its original configuration. Repair and restoration to original configuration is the subject of it. Removal is not, and nobody should read it as opening a door that stays shut.
What It Does to Your Warranty
Treat a delete as grounds for the manufacturer to deny an emissions or powertrain claim and to treat the emissions warranty as void.
There's a nuance worth knowing, though, because it cuts slightly in your favour and most articles get it backwards. A warrantor is not precluded from denying liability where the warrantor can demonstrate that the defect or damage was so caused. Read that one twice, because the burden sits with them rather than with you.
What they can do is deny the specific claim they can tie to the part. On emissions hardware that connection is not a hard one for them to draw.
So an aftermarket air filter isn't going to cost you your engine coverage. Removing the aftertreatment is a different conversation, and it's one to have with yourself before the wrench comes out.
What to Have Ready Before You Order
Four facts and any fitment conversation takes a minute instead of a week.
- Model year from the door jamb. Not the purchase year, not the title year.
- Cab and bed configuration. Regular, extended or crew; short bed or long. These change the length of the run.
- Pickup or cab and chassis. Genuinely different trucks under the back half, and a pickup system does not transfer to one.
- What's already been done back there. If somebody has been in the exhaust before you, the parts on the truck may not be the parts that left the factory.
Send those four with your question. If we don't have something that fits, that's the answer you'll get, and you'll get it before the card comes out rather than after.
What Installation Actually Involves
Worth being straight about this, because "bolt-on" gets used generously in this industry.
A full exhaust system is a mechanical job on a lift or on good stands. You're separating the factory aftertreatment section, dealing with fasteners that have been through several winters of road salt, and hanging a new run of pipe on the existing mounts. Penetrating oil the night before isn't optional advice, it's the difference between an afternoon and a weekend.
The realistic list of what you want on hand:
- A way to get the truck up safely, and enough working height to swing a length of pipe.
- Penetrating oil, applied early and applied twice.
- A plan for the fasteners you're going to round off, because you'll round off at least one.
- A second set of hands for the hang. Pipe is awkward more than it's heavy.
Sensors and the engine control module are a separate conversation from the pipe, and we're not going to blur the two to make this sound simpler than it is. The exhaust is the exhaust.
Notes Specific to the Cummins Platform
The inline six is the reason people keep these trucks, and it is also the reason the parts conversation is more forgiving here than on some platforms.
Physically, the exhaust run on a Cummins truck is a long straight shot down one side, which is why the systems are simpler than the equivalents on a V8 with two banks to merge. That works in your favour on install day.
Where it catches people out is the sheer length of the production run. This engine family has been in these trucks for decades, the badge has stayed remarkably consistent, and the hardware behind it has not. A part that fits one truck with the same name on the fender can be wrong for another by an inch of hanger spacing.
The other Cummins-specific trap is displacement. There is more than one Cummins engine in the world and more than one in these trucks over the years. A part listed for one displacement does not fit another, and "it's a Cummins" is not enough information to order against. Our own catalogue join treats displacement as decisive for exactly that reason.
What Arrives, and What Does Not
We'd rather over-explain this than have you open a carton and start counting.
Engine calibration is a separate product from a separate specialist, bought separately. No hardware on this page changes what your ECM is doing.
Labour is yours to arrange. These are parts, shipped to you or to your shop.
Consumables are worth asking about rather than assuming. Gaskets, clamps and hardware vary by product and the product record is the place that answer lives.
If a listing elsewhere reads as though one purchase covers all of that, read it twice. Usually the specified half is the hardware and the rest is a conversation you have after the money has moved.
Why We List Year Ranges Instead of an Engine Name
You'll see plenty of listings that name the engine and stop there. We don't, and the reason is boring rather than noble: we got tired of processing returns.
A range on a listing is a promise about physical mounting. It means somebody has confirmed that the part lines up on the trucks inside that range. A listing without one is making no promise at all, and the cost of discovering that lands on you at the point where the truck is already in the air.
The engine name is the least specific fact about your truck that anybody could use to sell you a part. Two trucks can carry the same engine and take completely different hardware behind it, because the chassis, the cab configuration and the mounting points moved even when the engine did not.
So when you're comparing us against another seller, check whether the listing commits to a range. If it doesn't, ask the question before the card comes out.
What to Have Ready Before You Order
Four facts, and any fitment conversation takes a minute instead of a week.
- The model year off the door jamb. Not the year you bought it, and not the year on the title if the truck was registered late. Open the driver's door and read the sticker.
- Cab and bed configuration. Regular, extended or crew, and whether the bed is short or long. This changes the length of the run and it is not a detail.
- Pickup or cab and chassis. These are genuinely different trucks under the back half, and a pickup part does not transfer to a cab and chassis.
- What has already been done. If somebody has been in there before you, the parts on the truck may not be the parts that left the factory, and that changes what bolts up.
Send those four with your question and we can tell you in one reply whether we have something for you.
And if you're shopping around, take the same four facts to whoever else you're talking to. A seller who can answer fitment from those four details has actually catalogued their parts. A seller who asks you to measure something, or who says it will probably work, is telling you they don't know. That's useful to learn before the money moves rather than after.
Talking to Us Before and After
A short note on how this works in practice, because the buying experience on parts like these is mostly about the conversation around them.
Before you order. Send the four facts above and ask directly whether we have something for your truck. If the honest answer is that we don't, that is the answer you will get. We would rather lose a sale than process a return on a part that was never going to fit, and there is no version of this where guessing helps either of us.
While it's in transit. Check the carton against the product record when it lands, before the truck goes up on stands. Five minutes with a parts list beats discovering a shortage with the old hardware already off.
During the job. If something doesn't look like it lines up, stop and message us rather than persuading it into place. Nine times out of ten it's an orientation question with a two-line answer. The tenth time it's a fitment problem we need to know about, and forcing it makes that harder to sort out, not easier.
Afterwards. Tell us what the install was actually like. Half of what we know about how these go on came from customers telling us where the instructions were optimistic.
The Bottom Line
There is no single box holding the pipe and the tune for a 6.7 Cummins, and any listing that says otherwise is describing marketing rather than parts. Confirm your year, pick your diameter, and treat calibration as its own project with its own specialist.
Read everything on this page as sold for closed-course competition and off-road use on vehicles not registered for highway use, and read that off-road designation as one that does not protect a buyer who fits a part to a registered truck.
Thanks for reading. If you're not sure which of these fits your truck, shoot us a message with the year and we'll give you a straight answer.