6.7 Cummins Crankcase Filter: What We Have and What We Don't

Why Tell You What We Don't Have?

Because the obvious move — show you the nearest thing and let you sort out whether it's what you wanted — is a bad trade for both of us. The cost of a wrong purchase is not the return, it's the weekend that was set aside and the truck that came apart.

A retailer's instinct here is to keep you on the page. We think that's short-term thinking.

Here's the deal. The cost of a wrong purchase isn't the postage. It's the Saturday you cleared, the truck sitting on stands, and the trust that doesn't come back afterwards.

It's also a bad trade for us in plain commercial terms. A return costs more to process than the margin on the sale, and a customer who feels steered doesn't come back at all. The honest answer is usually the commercially sensible one, and this is one of the clearer examples of it.

So: no standalone crankcase filter product for this truck. Now let's talk about what we do have, in case it's useful.

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What Do We Have for This Truck?

The exhaust side — a different job in a different place. Straight pipe replacing the factory aftertreatment section, under the truck, mostly a question of fasteners and access rather than skill.

Physically the larger job, and a completely separate one from what you searched for.

The exhaust side replaces the factory aftertreatment section with straight pipe. It's under-truck work, it's long and awkward rather than heavy, and it rewards a second pair of hands.

If you're working through this platform generally and the crankcase question was one item on a longer list, this is genuinely relevant and the listings below cover the years.

If the crankcase side was the whole reason you're here, it isn't relevant, and the rest of this page is background rather than a pitch.

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Which Exhaust System Fits My Year?

Each listing states the years it covers and links to the product page. Match the model year off your door jamb and you have your answer — and if your year isn't there, we'll tell you that too.

4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018

The 4" Full Exhaust System covers the 2013 through 2018 model years.

The 4" Full Exhaust System for 2013-2018 starts at $699.00.

4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2019-2024

The 4" Full Exhaust System covers the 2019 through 2024 model years.

The 4" Full Exhaust System for 2019-2024 starts at $699.00.

5" Exhaust DPF Delete | Dodge Ram 6.7L Cummins 2007.5-2012

The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete covers the 2008 through 2012 model years.

The 5" Exhaust DPF Delete for 2008-2012 starts at $849.00.

5" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2013-2018

The 5" Full Exhaust System covers the 2013 through 2018 model years.

The 5" Full Exhaust System for 2013-2018 starts at $799.00.

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How Do You Work Out Whether This Page Is for You?

One honest question: what actually prompted the search? A specific crankcase problem points you elsewhere. A broader project makes the exhaust side worth reading. If you're not sure which, message us with what the truck is doing.

It comes down to what you were actually trying to solve.

If it was a specific crankcase problem, look elsewhere for that part and come back if the exhaust side becomes relevant. We'll still be here and we'd rather you got the right thing from somebody than the wrong thing from us.

If you were mapping out a broader project and this was one line on it, read on. The exhaust side is a real part of that project and the listings above are specific about years.

If you're not sure which of those you are, message us with what the truck is doing rather than which part you think you need. That's a much easier question to answer usefully, and it occasionally turns out the problem isn't the part anybody assumed.

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Where Does the Law Actually Stand on This?

This is the section most sites skip or bury. We're putting it in the middle of the article, where you'll actually read it.

Section 203(a)(3) of the Act prohibits tampering with emissions controls, and also prohibits making and selling products with a principal effect of bypassing, defeating, or rendering inoperative emissions controls.^[1]

The Act's prohibitions against tampering and aftermarket defeat devices are set forth in section 203(a)(3) of the Act, 42 U.S.C. § 7522(a)(3).^[1] That is the federal rule, and it isn't ambiguous.

The Act's prohibitions on tampering and defeat devices apply for the entire life of vehicles, engines, and equipment.^[1] So an older truck and a second owner change nothing at all.

Now the part people get wrong most often. There is no exemption under the CAA for vehicles used only offroad or only for racing.^[2] There is no legal pathway to convert a motor vehicle to a competition-use vehicle exempt from the tampering prohibition.^[2]

And the definition is broader than people expect. The term "motor vehicle" means any self-propelled vehicle designed for transporting persons or property on a street or highway.^[3] Your truck was designed that way at the factory, and parking it doesn't undesign it.

What's the compliant route for a truck you drive on the road?

- Ask for CARB Executive Order parts. Look for a part-specific CARB Executive Order number on the part itself, and check that the number covers your make, model and engine family rather than assuming a brand-wide approval. - Ask about SEMA Certified Emissions parts. Treat this as a certification pathway a manufacturer can use to demonstrate a part does not increase emissions, not as a shortcut around anything. - Ask your shop about emissions-intact tuning. Calibration work that leaves the aftertreatment hardware and the onboard diagnostic monitors doing their job is the route that keeps a plated truck where it needs to be.

If your truck wears plates and sees public roads, work down that list with your installer. We'd rather point you there than sell you the wrong thing.

Be careful with one more thing, because it gets repeated wrong all over the internet. Every so often a change in federal posture gets reported as though it had opened a door for removing emissions equipment. Read any such report against what the sections above actually say, and notice whether the report is describing repair and restoration to original configuration or describing removal. Those are different subjects and only one of them is usually what the underlying document is about.

Treat any claim that federal policy now permits a delete on a registered vehicle as something to verify at the source rather than something to act on. We are not going to summarise those documents for you here, because a summary is exactly where this kind of claim gets bent, and the sections above are the position we will stand behind.

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What Does This Do to Your Warranty?

Treat a delete as grounds for the manufacturer to deny an emissions or powertrain claim and to treat the emissions warranty as void.

There's a nuance worth knowing, though, because it cuts slightly in your favour and most articles get it backwards. A warrantor is not precluded from denying liability where the warrantor can demonstrate that the defect or damage was so caused.^[4] Read that one twice, because the burden sits with them rather than with you.

What they can do is deny the specific claim they can tie to the part. On emissions hardware that connection is not a hard one for them to draw.

So an aftermarket air filter isn't going to cost you your engine coverage. Removing the aftertreatment is a different conversation, and it's one to have with yourself before the wrench comes out.

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What Should You Have Ready If the Exhaust Side Is Relevant?

The model year off the door jamb, the cab and bed configuration, whether it's a pickup or a cab and chassis, and whether anybody has been in the exhaust before you. Four facts and one reply.

Same four facts as everywhere else on this platform, and they matter for the same reasons.

The model year off the door jamb. Photograph the sticker while you're there.

Cab and bed configuration. This sets the length of the run and it is not a detail.

Pickup or cab and chassis. Genuinely different trucks behind the cab.

What's already been done. If somebody has been in there before you, the parts on the truck may not be the parts that left the factory, and the new ones have to mate to what's actually present.

Send those four and you'll get a straight answer in one reply — including, as this whole page has been about, the answer that we don't have something.

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How Long Does the Install Actually Take?

Worth being straight about this, because "bolt-on" gets used generously in this industry.

A full exhaust system is a mechanical job on a lift or on good stands. You're separating the factory aftertreatment section, dealing with fasteners that have been through several winters of road salt, and hanging a new run of pipe on the existing mounts. Penetrating oil the night before isn't optional advice, it's the difference between an afternoon and a weekend.

The realistic list of what you want on hand:

- A way to get the truck up safely, and enough working height to swing a length of pipe. - Penetrating oil, applied early and applied twice. - A plan for the fasteners you're going to round off, because you'll round off at least one. - A second set of hands for the hang. Pipe is awkward more than it's heavy.

Sensors and the engine control module are a separate conversation from the pipe, and we're not going to blur the two to make this sound simpler than it is. The exhaust is the exhaust.

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What Is Specific to the Cummins Platform?

Cummins engines have been an option in Ram pickups since 1989.^[5]

The inline six is the reason people keep these trucks, and it is also the reason the parts conversation is more forgiving here than on some platforms.

Physically, the exhaust run on a Cummins truck is a long straight shot down one side, which is why the systems are simpler than the equivalents on a V8 with two banks to merge. That works in your favour on install day.

Where it catches people out is the sheer length of the production run. This engine family has been in these trucks for decades, the badge has stayed remarkably consistent, and the hardware behind it has not. A part that fits one truck with the same name on the fender can be wrong for another by an inch of hanger spacing.

The other Cummins-specific trap is displacement. There is more than one Cummins engine in the world and more than one in these trucks over the years. A part listed for one displacement does not fit another, and "it's a Cummins" is not enough information to order against. Our own catalogue join treats displacement as decisive for exactly that reason.

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What Arrives in the Box, and What Does Not?

We'd rather over-explain this than have you open a carton and start counting.

Engine calibration is a separate product from a separate specialist, bought separately. No hardware on this page changes what your ECM is doing.

Labour is yours to arrange. These are parts, shipped to you or to your shop.

Consumables are worth asking about rather than assuming. Gaskets, clamps and hardware vary by product and the product record is the place that answer lives.

If a listing elsewhere reads as though one purchase covers all of that, read it twice. Usually the specified half is the hardware and the rest is a conversation you have after the money has moved.

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Why Do We List Year Ranges Instead of an Engine Name?

You'll see plenty of listings that name the engine and stop there. We don't, and the reason is boring rather than noble: we got tired of processing returns.

A range on a listing is a promise about physical mounting. It means somebody has confirmed that the part lines up on the trucks inside that range. A listing without one is making no promise at all, and the cost of discovering that lands on you at the point where the truck is already in the air.

The engine name is the least specific fact about your truck that anybody could use to sell you a part. Two trucks can carry the same engine and take completely different hardware behind it, because the chassis, the cab configuration and the mounting points moved even when the engine did not.

So when you're comparing us against another seller, check whether the listing commits to a range. If it doesn't, ask the question before the card comes out.

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What Happens If You Need Us Afterwards?

A short note on how this works in practice, because the buying experience on parts like these is mostly about the conversation around them.

Before you order. Send the four facts above and ask directly whether we have something for your truck. If the honest answer is that we don't, that is the answer you will get. We would rather lose a sale than process a return on a part that was never going to fit, and there is no version of this where guessing helps either of us.

While it's in transit. Check the carton against the product record when it lands, before the truck goes up on stands. Five minutes with a parts list beats discovering a shortage with the old hardware already off.

During the job. If something doesn't look like it lines up, stop and message us rather than persuading it into place. Nine times out of ten it's an orientation question with a two-line answer. The tenth time it's a fitment problem we need to know about, and forcing it makes that harder to sort out, not easier.

Afterwards. Tell us what the install was actually like. Half of what we know about how these go on came from customers telling us where the instructions were optimistic.

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The Bottom Line

We don't have a standalone crankcase filter product for this truck and we'd rather say so plainly. What we have is the exhaust side, listed by year, and it's genuinely useful if that was part of your plan anyway.

Read everything on this page as sold for closed-course competition and off-road use on vehicles not registered for highway use, and read that off-road designation as one that does not protect a buyer who fits a part to a registered truck.

Thanks for reading. Tell us what the truck is doing and we'll tell you whether anything we have is relevant.