2023 Ram Cummins: What Is Available for the Newer Trucks

Why Is Searching Harder When the Truck Is New?

Search results skew to volume, and volume lives with the older vehicles. You get pages of listings written for a truck five or ten years older, the parts look identical in a photograph, and nothing in the presentation flags the difference.

The other half of the problem is that fewer people have done this job on your exact truck, so the write-ups that exist may describe an earlier variant without saying so.

Here's the deal: read the year off your door jamb and match it against a stated range. That's the reliable way and it's the only one that survives contact with a search page.

A range on a listing is a commitment about physical mounting. An engine name is not. On a recent truck that distinction matters more than usual, because the engine name has been in use for years and the mounting has not stayed still.

Let's break it down by what's actually listed.

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What Parts of the Job Are Covered?

Three, which is unusual for a recent truck: the exhaust side, the recirculation side, and the crankcase side. Each is listed separately with its own years, because they are separate parts.

More than one part of the job is covered here, and that's worth knowing because recent trucks often have only one.

The exhaust side is straight pipe replacing the factory aftertreatment section. Under-truck work and physically the larger job.

The recirculation side is engine-bay work with coolant and a bleed procedure at the end.

The crankcase side is smaller again, mostly a question of sensible routing rather than force.

Each is listed separately below with its own years, because they're separate parts and there's no requirement to do them together.

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Which Parts Fit My Truck?

Each listing states its own years and links to the product page. Check them separately — ranges do not have to align across different parts of the job, and assuming they do is a small mistake with an annoying consequence.

4" Full Exhaust System | Ram 6.7L Cummins 2019-2024

The 4" Full Exhaust System covers the 2019 through 2024 model years.

The 4" Full Exhaust System for 2019-2024 starts at $699.00.

CCV Delete Kit | Dodge 6.7 Ram Cummins 2007.5-2024

The CCV Delete Kit covers the 2007 through 2024 model years.

The CCV Delete Kit for 2007-2024 is $109.00.

EGR Delete | Dodge 6.7L Cummins Diesel 2010-2024

The EGR Delete covers the 2010 through 2024 model years.

The EGR Delete for 2010-2024 starts at $299.00.

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What Should You Do First?

The job that solves your actual problem. If something specific prompted this search, start there. If nothing did, the exhaust side is the most forgiving first job on this platform.

With more than one option, the order is worth thinking about.

Do the job that solves your actual problem. If something specific prompted this search, start there rather than working through a list somebody else wrote for a different truck.

If nothing specific prompted it, the exhaust side is the most forgiving first job on this platform and a reasonable place to begin.

Check each part's year range separately. Ranges don't have to align across different parts of the job. Assuming they do is a small mistake with an annoying consequence.

There's no requirement to do everything. Plenty of people do one thing and stop, and that is a perfectly good outcome.

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Where Does the Law Actually Stand on This?

This is the section most sites skip or bury. We're putting it in the middle of the article, where you'll actually read it.

Section 203(a)(3) of the Act prohibits tampering with emissions controls, and also prohibits making and selling products with a principal effect of bypassing, defeating, or rendering inoperative emissions controls.^[1]

The Act's prohibitions against tampering and aftermarket defeat devices are set forth in section 203(a)(3) of the Act, 42 U.S.C. § 7522(a)(3).^[1] That is the federal rule, and it isn't ambiguous.

The Act's prohibitions on tampering and defeat devices apply for the entire life of vehicles, engines, and equipment.^[1] So an older truck and a second owner change nothing at all.

Now the part people get wrong most often. There is no exemption under the CAA for vehicles used only offroad or only for racing.^[2] There is no legal pathway to convert a motor vehicle to a competition-use vehicle exempt from the tampering prohibition.^[2]

And the definition is broader than people expect. The term "motor vehicle" means any self-propelled vehicle designed for transporting persons or property on a street or highway.^[3] Your truck was designed that way at the factory, and parking it doesn't undesign it.

What's the compliant route for a truck you drive on the road?

- Ask for CARB Executive Order parts. Look for a part-specific CARB Executive Order number on the part itself, and check that the number covers your make, model and engine family rather than assuming a brand-wide approval. - Ask about SEMA Certified Emissions parts. Treat this as a certification pathway a manufacturer can use to demonstrate a part does not increase emissions, not as a shortcut around anything. - Ask your shop about emissions-intact tuning. Calibration work that leaves the aftertreatment hardware and the onboard diagnostic monitors doing their job is the route that keeps a plated truck where it needs to be.

If your truck wears plates and sees public roads, work down that list with your installer. We'd rather point you there than sell you the wrong thing.

Be careful with one more thing, because it gets repeated wrong all over the internet. Every so often a change in federal posture gets reported as though it had opened a door for removing emissions equipment. Read any such report against what the sections above actually say, and notice whether the report is describing repair and restoration to original configuration or describing removal. Those are different subjects and only one of them is usually what the underlying document is about.

Treat any claim that federal policy now permits a delete on a registered vehicle as something to verify at the source rather than something to act on. We are not going to summarise those documents for you here, because a summary is exactly where this kind of claim gets bent, and the sections above are the position we will stand behind.

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What Does This Do to Your Warranty?

Treat a delete as grounds for the manufacturer to deny an emissions or powertrain claim and to treat the emissions warranty as void.

There's a nuance worth knowing, though, because it cuts slightly in your favour and most articles get it backwards. A warrantor is not precluded from denying liability where the warrantor can demonstrate that the defect or damage was so caused.^[4] Read that one twice, because the burden sits with them rather than with you.

What they can do is deny the specific claim they can tie to the part. On emissions hardware that connection is not a hard one for them to draw.

So an aftermarket air filter isn't going to cost you your engine coverage. Removing the aftertreatment is a different conversation, and it's one to have with yourself before the wrench comes out.

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What Is Doing This on a Recent Truck Like?

Easier in the hands and harder in the head. Little corrosion and clean removal, but thin documentation — you may be creating the reference rather than following one.

Different from an older truck in ways that are mostly good.

Fasteners come apart properly. Little corrosion, less fighting, and removal generally goes the way it's described.

There's less written material. Fewer people have done this on your truck, so expect to think more and copy less.

Take good photographs. On a recent variant you may be creating the reference rather than following one, and future owners will benefit even if they never know it.

Ask before you order rather than after. Send us the year, the cab and bed configuration, and whether it's a pickup or a cab and chassis. On a recent truck the parts are less plentiful, so a wrong one takes longer to put right.

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How Long Does the Install Actually Take?

This one is closer work than an exhaust job, and it's worth knowing that going in.

An EGR kit lives in the engine bay rather than under the truck, which sounds easier and usually isn't. You're working around coolant lines in a space that was packaged by somebody who never had to reach into it. Expect to remove things that aren't part of the job just to see the things that are.

What to have ready:

- Somewhere to catch coolant, and enough of the correct coolant to refill. - A proper set of metric sockets including the deep ones, and patience with the fasteners you can feel but not see. - New gaskets and hardware, where the product record does not list them. - Time. Budget more than the internet says, every time.

Bleeding the cooling system properly afterwards matters more than the removal did. An air pocket left in there is a problem that shows up later, in traffic, at temperature.

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What Is Specific to the Cummins Platform?

Cummins engines have been an option in Ram pickups since 1989.^[5]

The inline six is the reason people keep these trucks, and it is also the reason the parts conversation is more forgiving here than on some platforms.

Physically, the exhaust run on a Cummins truck is a long straight shot down one side, which is why the systems are simpler than the equivalents on a V8 with two banks to merge. That works in your favour on install day.

Where it catches people out is the sheer length of the production run. This engine family has been in these trucks for decades, the badge has stayed remarkably consistent, and the hardware behind it has not. A part that fits one truck with the same name on the fender can be wrong for another by an inch of hanger spacing.

The other Cummins-specific trap is displacement. There is more than one Cummins engine in the world and more than one in these trucks over the years. A part listed for one displacement does not fit another, and "it's a Cummins" is not enough information to order against. Our own catalogue join treats displacement as decisive for exactly that reason.

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What Arrives in the Box, and What Does Not?

We'd rather over-explain this than have you open a carton and start counting.

Engine calibration is a separate product from a separate specialist, bought separately. Do not expect anything on this page to change what your ECM is doing.

Labour is yours to arrange. These are parts, shipped to you or to your shop.

Consumables are worth asking about rather than assuming. Gaskets, clamps and hardware vary by product and the product record is the place that answer lives.

If a listing elsewhere reads as though one purchase covers all of that, read it twice. Usually the specified half is the hardware and the rest is a conversation you have after the money has moved.

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Why Do We List Year Ranges Instead of an Engine Name?

You'll see plenty of listings that name the engine and stop there. We don't, and the reason is boring rather than noble: we got tired of processing returns.

A range on a listing is a promise about physical mounting. It means somebody has confirmed that the part lines up on the trucks inside that range. A listing without one is making no promise at all, and the cost of discovering that lands on you at the point where the truck is already in the air.

The engine name is the least specific fact about your truck that anybody could use to sell you a part. Two trucks can carry the same engine and take completely different hardware behind it, because the chassis, the cab configuration and the mounting points moved even when the engine did not.

So when you're comparing us against another seller, check whether the listing commits to a range. If it doesn't, ask the question before the card comes out.

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What Happens If You Need Us Afterwards?

A short note on how this works in practice, because the buying experience on parts like these is mostly about the conversation around them.

Before you order. Send the four facts above and ask directly whether we have something for your truck. If the honest answer is that we don't, that is the answer you will get. We would rather lose a sale than process a return on a part that was never going to fit, and there is no version of this where guessing helps either of us.

While it's in transit. Check the carton against the product record when it lands, before the truck goes up on stands. Five minutes with a parts list beats discovering a shortage with the old hardware already off.

During the job. If something doesn't look like it lines up, stop and message us rather than persuading it into place. Nine times out of ten it's an orientation question with a two-line answer. The tenth time it's a fitment problem we need to know about, and forcing it makes that harder to sort out, not easier.

Afterwards. Tell us what the install was actually like. Half of what we know about how these go on came from customers telling us where the instructions were optimistic.

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The Bottom Line

A recent truck means a shorter list, thinner documentation and search results aimed at somebody else's vehicle. Match your model year against each part's stated range separately, and do the job that solves your actual problem first.

Read everything on this page as sold for closed-course competition and off-road use on vehicles not registered for highway use, and read that off-road designation as one that does not protect a buyer who fits a part to a registered truck.

Thanks for reading. Send the year and configuration and we'll tell you which of these apply to your truck.